Glastonbury, as some of you may know, is regarded as a mystical place by many, dominated as it is by an ancient tor and the hint of intersecting ley lines. You may be sceptical of such things but after spending time there I think it’s safe to say that strange things do happen, particularly on the last weekend of June each year.
There are pixies in the fields of Glastonbury missing their ears. I know this because I saw the bowl of ears for myself on the counter of the EarthHeart Café, downtown Worthy Farm, in between Green Fields, Shangri-La and Trash City, at the end of a corridor of duck board and cementing mud that sucked my paisley wellies into its grip. The composition of that mud is itself an earthy mystery.
Now it’s just asking for trouble to put a bowl of pixie ears on a counter next to the chocolate ‘energy’ balls. I spent much of the rest of the day mulling over the mystery of where the pixies went, who had taken their ears and whether this had been okay with the pixies to begin with. It was also a mystery why we all turned up, tens of thousands of us, at 12.30 on a Saturday morning after about 4 hours sleep, to have a sing-a-long with Rolf Harris. There he was, wobble board and deft lines entertaining us with Sunrise, Tie Me Kangaroo Down Sport and Two Little Boys. It’s a mystery what the ballerinas in wellies were up to; why the Biker Urban Morris Dancers thought it was a good idea; why people play gazoos and march at the same time; and what the Gujurati Brass Band made of it all. Was that really a bunch of bananas chasing a monkey? There’s the mystery of the ‘Patter man’, who just did the banter between each of his band’s songs, and then jerked around a bit on the stage while the rest of his band played their instruments or their computers.
It’s not really a mystery as to why a café may keep messing up orders if no-one stays sober behind the counter, but there’s still the mystery of all the men in skirts, including my personal favourite … the Utili-Kilt … with appropriate pockets so the ready Scot can keep his leatherman close to hand. Perhaps this is an easy mystery to solve though: the space of Worthy Farm, ring-fenced by a security barricade the Pentagon would be proud of, is a giant metaphorical sandpit (or mud slide depending on the weather) which allows all sorts of creative play within its perimeter (as long as you don’t hurt yourself or anyone else). So playing with gendered identity is perfectly compatible with all the other psychedelic tropes. The mystery of all those empty nitrous oxide canisters scattered about … they must have been used to fill hundreds of balloons.
I have no problem with people’s chemical preferences – I would imagine it’s much more preferable to wake up after half a disco biscuit than after drinking the tetra packs of Tesco’s ‘Red Spanish wine’ carried from stage to stage by some revellers. Hmmm tasty. But it has to be pointed out that it is a mystery to me why people suddenly become capable of mistaking inane conversation for what they obviously think is making them sound incredibly intelligent and interesting. At two in the morning no-one really wants to hear about the digital version of 19th century European battles you made including authentic replications of 180 different uniforms with detailed descriptions of each one!
I adored the mystery of the man wearing a knitted gimp mask. Note to self … idea for new business … ‘GimpKnits’. Speaking of hygiene … did I really not clean my teeth today? And a survival tip for Glastonbury toilets: back in, don’t look down and DO NOT under any circumstances touch anything. If it can be at all arranged, get yourself a man/woman who can get you hospitality area tickets … worth it alone for the toilets and showers. The latrines do have a surreal look about them at night though: picture mist from warm substances rising up in the cold air, caught by the tungsten lighting of temporary security beacons. And wreathed in said mist is the imposing figure of Chemical Elvis aka Beast of Burden aka Dingo Baby taking a piss, standing head and shoulders above the parapets, all 6’6" of him in his Napoleonic headgear trimmed with feathery bits.
But I shouldn’t use language like ‘piss’. I’ve decided to clean up my potty mouth after a session at the poetry tent where every bright young thing had to say ‘fuck’ at some point in their performance. Last time I checked my dictionary ‘fuck’ did not translate into ‘authentic’, ‘street cred’ or ‘cool’. Did Shakespeare use profanities?! No he did not … not explicitly anyway. Okay lots of double entendre and hand actions but nothing to shock the kiddies and the ladies in the upper circle too much. I did feel for the poor Shakespearean performers who’ve probably studied for years at RADA and now had an audience of the von Trapp family and a dozen or so friends of Lucy in the afternoon sunshine with diamonds. Note to performers: don’t be wearing fake sheep’s heads when your audience consists of people also trying to find pixies missing their ears. I can report however that the fluidity of Shakespeare’s language sounds just as good performed by actors in solidifying wellies.
There is the mystery of a banner, ‘My Dear Horse: You’re not a Pony Anymore’, held aloft in the crowded mosh so that all those who understood its meaning could slide toward the bearer, holding hands, forming a human chain, like water sliding between the cracks of space that mysteriously open up once some unseen pressure of presence was applied to the crowd. I also liked the T-shirt declaring: ‘Not all who wander are lost’. This is a mantra for a weekend at Glastonbury. Days can be spent wandering from stage to stage, sitting in the fields, doing the odd workshop on spinning or wood turning, getting a reflexology session, texting friends with ‘Where r u’, playing ‘who’s that band’, and pulling out the schedule to work it out. It is a universal truth that you will hear the greatest music ever (for example, the Carnival Collective one day, the Peatbog Faeries the next) just as they are finishing their set.
The real mystery is that despite the crowds (180 000), the complaints of ‘oh it’s so middle class now’, the toilets, and the sheer noise and scale of the thing, Glasto still remains a magical place. I think the pixies will be okay.