The way of the gîte

It is possible these days to make the crossing of the GR10 without a tent as cabanes, gîtes, refuges and auberges are now spaced across the Pyrenées. This accommodation can range from purpose built with mod-cons, converted homes in bustling villages, to simple renovated barns in the middle of nowhere. They may still at times possess a squat toilet, lack toilet paper, or lack enough toilets, but they make for a comfortable, cheaper option that avoids the carrying of excess baggage.

However, there is a certain artfulness to gîte living. First, and most importantly, getting in early means you can get a good bunk: avoid those near a doorway and go for a low berth if you don’t fancy crawling off a six foot platform in the middle of the night if you need to use the bathroom. Respectful spatial arrangements are necessary including leaving a gap between yourself and the next body if numbers allow. You have no choice in who your neighbour might be, and in the busier gîtes, where the mattresses are lined up next to each other, you can wake up with a complete stranger literally in your face.

Second, don’t forget your earplugs. People will snore and fart and get up and rustle plastic bags. But hopefully you’ll be too tired to worry about it.

Third, go to bed by 9pm and get out no later than 8am unless you’re staying a second night. This may sound draconian but after a day’s walking I can sleep nine hours straight, be up at 6am and never feel tired. It’s a mystery why back in London I can just about manage to haul myself out of bed at 8am only after much mental persuasion, and four hours of uphill in the Pyrenées feels like a walk in the park compared to the four flights of stairs to my office.

Fourth, gîtes are unisex, intergenerational communal spaces. No-one is looking. It is also one of the great benefits of getting old in that I actually don’t care if anyone in the dorm does happen to see me in my undies (and I can highly recommend the Sweaty Betty boxer shorts for quick dry comfort. Now if only I could find a bra that I didn’t have to put on damp every morning). 

Fifth, expect a degree of eccentricity in some of the gîtes. There were beer shandies for the early arrivers on Day 1 because the manager ‘liked our faces’. There was a refusal to provide a vegetarian meal on Day 8 (Auberge Elichalt, Sainte Engrâce – avoid if you have the chance). In the Hebergement Pic D’anie (Lescun, Day 11), there are a lot of dead animals on the walls and a gun rack in the office. This is a reminder that there are sections of the trail best avoided during the hunting season lest an unfortunate walker be mistaken for a pigeon.

Sixth, try to keep track of all your belongings. Everyone has the same looking poles, pants, socks, hats etc, especially after a few days trekking (sweat, mud, wear and tear can soon remove any brand markers).

Seven, boots most definitely stay out.

Eight, communal tables for dinner should be joined.

Most importantly, and for this I thank Kim (a fellow walker occasionally passed along the way): ‘centralise your crap’. This is a lesson for life. Don’t go spreading your baggage in other people’s space and never, NEVER, make anyone else carry it.